Monday, June 28

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June 28, Monday - Left Limon and went to Denver. Cooked lunch at Echo Lake. Went to Central City and spent the night at Estes Park.

June 29, Tuesday - Went to Grand Lake by way of Trail Ridge Road. Took a cruise ride in the afternoon and rested the rest of the day. Called Marvin.

June 30, Wednesday - A beautiful day! From Grand Lake to Berthoud Pass, to Loveland Pass to Hoosier Pass to Manitou. Bud and I went up the Manitou Incline.

Our vacations tended to be whirlwind affairs - Limon to Echo Lake to Central City Estes Park is about 220 miles. You could generally drive into a mountain town somewhere and without benefit of reservations, find a nice place to stay.

We cooked lunch out among the pines on a Coleman propane camp stove. Even to my jaded 15 year old palate, it tasted like cordon bleu. The stove, because of the high altitudes, required a larger gas orifice to work properly. My aunt Patty latched onto that and we heard orifice jokes all the time we were in Colorado. It's a goofy family, to be sure. It took a few years for me to understand the understated humor of orifices.

Trail Ridge Road is a scenic wonder, but Grand Lake is not all that much to write home about, except for the stories about the fur-bearing trout that live there. So mom called home. Remember, this is 1965. Long Distance calling is a thing, and a few minutes on the phone between Colorado and Kansas City would probably have cost six or seven bucks or more. Say hello, keep it brief, and hang up.

All the passes, Loveland, Pass, Berthoud Pass, Hoosier Pass, and on to Manitou Springs. The standard procedure went something like this: Pick a route on the map, decide when and where to eat lunch, and take off driving. Arrive at a waypoint, get out, point at the sign, have your picture taken, lather, rinse, repeat. Sadly, those images have been lost to the ravages of time, dozens of moves, crabby relatives, and our dramatic downsize.

Here's one from a number of years earlier, taken on a big family caravan vacation. This is at Snowy Range Pass, Wyoming:

Please note the nine year-old photographer on the left holding his trusty Ansco Pioneer 620. I already knew what I wanted to do with my life.

Anyway, the Manitou Incline was, to me a wonder of engineering. It was a railway that ran up the side of a mountain in Manitou. You sat in a reclining seat, facing Colorado Springs. As the car started up the steep incline, you were no longer reclining. You were sitting upright and wondering what would happen if one of those drive cables snapped. You'd be doing Mach 1 by the time you got to the bottom, I think. My aunt Patty got a case of the yips thinking about it, and I used my natural talents as a jokester and smartass to keep her mind occupied with laughter. By the time we got to the top, the whole damn car was laughing, and when we got back to the bottom of the incline, the some guy told my mom he and his wife had so much fun listening to us that he paid for our dinner. Historical perspective: he never should have encouraged me. I still think I'm pretty funny.

The Incline Railway was closed after a rock slide in the 1990s, but the roadbed, minus the rails remains. Now, crazy people hike up the damn thing. Straight up. What a world.

Friday, June 25

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June 25, Friday - Washed this morning and went to store this afternoon. Johnson wasn't too happy that I wouldn't be back until the 12th. Stayed home last night - no fishing. Talked to Marie.

June 26, Saturday - Marv and I ironed and I packed Bud's and my suitcase. Went to Doctor Allen in afternoon. Delivered bait and sat on back porch with neighbors till 10.

June 27, Sunday - My birthday. Started trip. Doesn't seem that I should be 50. Breakfast in Junction City, lunch in. Supper and stayed all night in Limon. Bud is traveling better this trip.

Damn, I can't believe mom was (only) 50 at the time. Age perspective is entirely relative, and skewed when approached from a position of ignorant youth. Happy Birthday, mom.

For the record, if mom were still with us, she'd be 105 on the 27th.

Westward hoo boy! Getting from Kansas City to Colorado in 1965 wasn't the straight, flat, superslab adventure it is today. Interstate 70 (the first Interstate highway in the country, thanks to President Eisenhower, semi-native son and local hero) was still being constructed, and much of the trip west was on U.S. 40, a two-lane highway with a 60 mph speed limit, and a town every six or ten miles. We saw them all. "The Victory Highway." It took forever to get anywhere once you got past the smooth, fast, Kansas Turnpike at Topeka.

Our trips Way Out West* usually went something like this: Assemble the members of the traveling caravan at Tom and Pansy's house at 1501 Garfield in Kansas City, Kansas. The target time for this was around 4:30 a.m. This gave the participants, which could number anywhere from six to fifteen people, a chance to have a cup of grandma's hot, brown liquid that she claimed was coffee, have a pre-travel prayer and bible-verse reading, usually led by my dad, and head out the door to the waiting cars. It was a Baptist Le Mans start.

The largest of these groups was the Great Yellowstone Vacation of 1959. There were twelve or fourteen of the Patton Clan in a caravan of five cars.We didn't take our car, a 1947 Chevy Stylemaster of questionable roadworthiness. Instead, we got to drive grandad's fairly new 1958 Chevy sedan. There was a catch, though. It had to be the lead car, and my grandma had to ride shotgun. Meanwhile, grandpa Tom rode with some of the others. I thought this was odd for many years, but now I understand. Grandpa loved riding with my uncle Bob in his big, lime-green, 1958 Pontiac Bonneville. Wider than a locomotive, and made of pure Detroit chrome, it laid down the miles like a flying carpet from One Thousand and One Nights. Blink, and you're in Denver.

Grandma absolutely loved to travel. Grandma had also never learned to drive. This meant that, as we traveled, grandma's eyes were on the horizon, thinking about where we should be headed, not about how tired the driver may be, or how many miles had lapsed since anyone got a break of any kind. About the time the driver would be looking for a place to pull the wagons in a circle for the night, grandma would have a look at a road map, and say, "Let's drive on to (insert name of distant town here)." As the days passed, and this routine repeated itself several times, my dad lobbied for a different arrangement, and somewhere near Independence Rock, Wyoming, grandma became the subject of a secret morning coin toss. Whoever lost got Pansy and became the de facto lead car. Another Patton Family legend in the making.

Grandma's love of traveling became part of Patton Family Legend at her 1971 funeral. She died in August of that year, and friends and family gathered at the Nichols Funeral Home in Kansas City, Kansas to have a few laughs and say goodbye. This is how we did things. Funerals were not moribund group-crying events. They were celebrations and a whole lot of fun, really. My date said she had never laughed so hard at a funeral. Yeah, I had a date for Grandma's funeral. After the services, the cortége lined up and headed north for Leavenworth County and our Family Reserve. (Hi, Lyle.) My dad was in the lead car with the funeral director, giving driving instructions. He was wholly unqualified for this job.

 To prove this, he instructed the limo driver to take a left turn off of HIghway 92 in the middle of Downtown Leavenworth. The driver did as instructed and soon, the snaking line of vehicles was jammed into a couple of side streets. One was a dead end.

One by one, the cars, limos, and hearse started turning around on the narrow back street. I was in my Mustang a few cars back. An older woman who was pulling weeds in her front yard stopped what she was doing to watch the processional mayhem. She motioned to one of the limo drivers. He rolled down his window. 

She yelled, "You can't go this way. It's a dead end." 

That was the end of any kind of decorum for the rest of the day. As the family car passed me headed back the other way, I could see my mom and my uncle Bob laughing their asses off. My date looked at me in wonder. 

When we finally made it out to our oak-shaded cemetery near Easton, Kansas, and the casket moved to the gravesite, the minister started the service: 

"Pansy Patton always loved to travel. Especially in Leavenworth County." 

That was it. There were so many people howling with laughter that it took several minutes to get things calmed down enough to finish the funeral. We laughed about it for years. It was that kind of family.

Dudes, Wyoming, 1959
Uncle Walt, Uncle Bob, great-Uncle John, dad,
Grandpa Tom and The Black-Hatted Barefoot Bud - Five Feet tall at age eight.

Anyway, back to 1965. Mom and I were riding this trip with my aunt Patty and my cousin Susan. This was the tightest pod of the Pattons, and we often vacationed together. We laughed a lot. My cousin Susan was two years older than I was, and we had been best buds for as long as I could remember, longer actually. Susan was the big sister I never had.

Himself, my cousin Susan, and Aunt Patty at the top of Pikes Peak

We lost Susan a few years ago, and though we had drifted apart as adults, I still miss the great times and the laughter we shared. She was an amazing cook, and passed that gene on to her daughter.

We drove out in my aunt Patty's red 1962 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible, and a couple of hours after after the ungodly middle-of-the-night start, we rolled into Junction City, Kansas for breakfast. We had a regular downtown cafe stop there, and though I can't remember where, I do remember what - pancakes, always pancakes. Butter, syrup, cold frothy milk. I usually woke up again around Hays.

1962 Chevy - Image:http://allamericanclassiccars.blogspot.com/

The topic of conversation around our meals was always what we were going to do for the next meal, though this time around we had either packed sandwich stuff and ate at a city park somewhere along the way - Hays, Russell, or Wakeeny - or mom skipped a groove and didn't finish the sentence. An overnight stay at Limon included a ceremonial "We made it this far." dinner and a trip to the local municipal pool to wear out the road-hyper kids, then off to bed for another early start the next day.

"Bud is traveling better." is mom-code for Bud isn't having his violent episodes of car-sickness this trip. Nice. Oy, I could tell you stories.

* Do you have any idea how difficult it was to work in a Laurel and Hardy reference in a blog post about a road trip in 1965? Be amazed. I could connect even more dots and add Tilda Swinton to the narrative, but it's getting late. Besides, if you know, you know.

Tuesday, June 22

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June 22, Tuesday - Ironed late last night and early this morning. went to funeral home - Marie's mother-in-law. Took Linda fishing.

June 23, Wednesday - Went to Union Hall and picked up check. went downtown and then to Doctor Hesser's office. Go back to work July 12. He bawled me out. Appointment September 27. Went fishing.

June 24, Thursday - Got my hair fixed. Carol is back in hospital. Went to Mom's this afternoon. Bob and Mary were working on the front room. Went fishing.

This page represents the reality of  blogging someone's journal. Often, there is nothing of real interest - life goes on, errands get run, doctors are consulted, the sun rises and sets.

That's okay. There are more exciting days to come.

Saturday, June 19

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June 19, Saturday - Took Bud to Susan's for swimming. Marv and Sandy went fishing. Such a quiet day. Baked a cake, waxed the floors, and took a bath.

June 20, Sunday - Father's Day. Mom's birthday. Nice day. went to church and then took Marv to dinner at Waid's. Good meal. Went over to Mom's in evening. Frank and Jean were there. Jean's hearing is much improved. Thank goodness.

June 21, Monday - Marv and I washed. Then I paid rent and went to store. Stayed home in evening. Not much doing. Went downtown and bought two new dresses. Bud went to drive-in and got in at 1:30 a.m.

My cousin Susan was my closest relative on the Patton side of the family. She lived near the Wyandotte-Johnson County line in Kansas City, Kansas. We had always been pals, and when the family gathered at Pansy's, we always found ways to entertain ourselves.

Susan belonged to the Sun and Surf Swim Club out on County Line Road. Although I was recovering from the Mother of All Sunburns, I jumped at the chance to go hang out with Susan and her pals. Susan was two years older than I was, and was thus far more sophisticated and way more clever than I was. Her friends were smart, confident, and popular. They teased me mercilessly. It was like landing on Venus.

Most of my time this trip was spent preening and trying figure out how to wear my hair. I had given up the little dabs of Brylcreem and the polished Princeton haircut I had been wearing for years in favor of a more Beach Boys inspired fluffy mop, with just the right amount of front coverage. Not Beatles-style by any means, but certainly not my previous L7 square look, either. I'm sure I looked a fool, but I was so unaware of my place in the universe, it really didn't matter. I added a light spritz of peroxide to the front to add a bit of highlights. Jesus, really?

It must have been a special day indeed to break out of the Crane's Cafeteria rut and head over to Waid's for dinner for Father's Day. We always made a fuss over such days.

My aunt Jean's hearing has improved. Good thing. We were starting to yell at her so she could hear us. Family gatherings had started to sound like Sundays in Little Italy, except we didn't have anyone named Anthony to yell at, and there was no Caruso to be heard.

Monday is wash day, and mom went to Cirese's and paid the rent, ran downtown and just generally puttered. I get my puttering gene from mom. Man, I really hate puttering.

Mom and dad rented their house on 11th Street from Joe and Mary Cirese. My uncle Lawrence worked for them as a handyman and maintenance worker. When we moved into the house in 1955, the rent was set at $60 per month. That equals the buying power of about $575 in today's dollars. When the Cirese's son died in a horrific car crash in 1960, mom and dad sent flowers to the funeral home and visited before the funeral mass. Mary Cirese took my mom aside and told her that as long as she lived, she would never pay a dollar more in rent than she did on that day. My mom moved out of our house in 1978 to live in an assisted living complex. Her last rent payment was for $60. Mary Cirese was a saint. She died in 1999 at the age of 97.

I went to the drive-in, although mom doesn't say who I went with. There are only two possibilities - I might have gone with Ron and Mike, or I might have gone with dad's fishing buddy Sandy. I preferred Ron and Company because of the movie choices. Ron would have been more likely to go see Beach Party movies, and Sandy and her friends were more chick-flick and drama prone. There were, however, additional benefits to hanging out with Sandy.

Usually, it was Sandy, one of her girlfriends and me. We sat three across the front seat, gnawing on drive-in corn dogs and pizza, and slurping huge Cokes, and more or less tried to track with the movie. Sometimes we parked ourselves on a blanket on the hood of her car.

It took an entirely new turn the first time Sandy invited two friends. Sandy and her original friend sat up front, and I shared the back seat with a younger girl, who we'll call Friend Number Two. (Kevin help me, I can't remember her name.) She was maybe five feet tall, slightly built, freckled, had short-cropped hair, and was a bit high-strung, as I remember. The second it got dark enough for the movie to start, she peeled off her shirt and settled in, now topless, to snuggle up against me and watch the movie. I sensed that I was the unwitting and red-faced butt of a giggly girl-joke, but I really didn't care. It's difficult to explain how unprepared I was for all of this.

For a shy fourteen-year-old, the proximity of compact and unfettered teenage breasts in the back seat of an old Dodge was like a birthday, Christmas and the Fourth of July all rolled into one. My blushing, stammering overreaction to her sudden partial nudity made her laugh. She encouraged me to make the best of the situation. This routine happened maybe a three or four times that summer.

I kinda wish I could remember her name. Nah.

Wednesday, June 16

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June 16, Wednesday - Did washing and had my hair fixed. Beginning to feel better. Went fishing with Marv until dark at Joe's. Real cool. (Marked through: Played Bud a game of golf. He won!)

June 17, Thursday - Marv did ironing. We took Mike fishing. Marv took a ten pound carp. Mike took it home. We had to go up there and clean it.

June 18, Friday - No fishing today! Went to the store - got my vacation check. I can go back to work as soon as doctor releases me or take two weeks more. Think I'll go to work.

Life goes on. Fishing goes on. "Joe's" refers to 40 Hiway Club Lake. They had a miniature golf course that fronted the highway, and it was a pretty good place to get away from the constant fishing.

I know I've mentioned it before, but it might have been the year before - memory fades - that I invited Patty Saunders to go fishing at Joe's with me. That seemed perfectly normal to me, and looking back, it was a loaves-and-fishes-level miracle that she agreed to go along. Maybe I was a wholly charming, if perpetually chubby schlub that was simply irresistible to cute petite blonde teenage girls. Nah.

Mike was my buddy up the street, and it seems that while he was proud to drag dad's lunker carp home, he was less enthusiastic about gutting, skinning, and prepping the scaly monster.

Mom seems pretty excited that fishing takes a holiday on Friday. She's waiting now for clearance from her doctor to go back to work, and she can't wait. Mom has been spinning in circles since her surgery. She has always worked for a living, and all the spare time is making her crazy. Plus, when she's at work, life is a lot more predictable. Mom likes a well-organized life. So do I.

Sunday, June 13

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June 13, Sunday - More rain. Feel droopy.Went to church. Brought Mom over to our house for a while. Rained like crazy. Bud didn't feel well from his sunburn so we went to bed early.

June 14, Monday - Cleaned the whole house and baked a cake. Cool. Bud still doesn't feel too well. Blisters all over his shoulders. Today was my last treatment. Thank goodness.

June 15, Tuesday - Have to see both doctors next week. Hesser on Wednesday - Allen on Saturday. Was going to town this morning, but felt too badly. Went fishing with Marv and Bud this afternoon. 

 The sunburn aftermath continues. I had huge blisters all over my shoulders. Had to sleep on my stomach. I have never experienced another burn like this since, thank you. I'm surprised I've never had an issue with melanomas. (Knock wood)

Not much else going on - mom is taking her last Cobalt treatment, and hanging out with dad and me at the lake. The only cake mom ever made was Angel Food.

More fishing at 40 Hiway Club Lake. My tolerance for carp fishing isn't great. If you're not a carp angler, the process for fishing for the overgrown koi doesn't involve boats, waders, fly rods, or anything that looks like the standard wade-in-the-water style of fishing. If you want to catch carp, you sit. And sit.

Common Carp

My dad's rig was something like this - an open-spool level-wind bait-casting reel on an eight-foot fiberglas rod. (Spinning reels were for posers and children.) The reel was spooled with 28-pound test braided nylon line. At the fish end was a split nylon leader with two treble hooks, one six to eight inches higher than the other. Directly above that was a lead sinker. When dad was ready to go after the scaly monsters, he baited both hooks with one of his patented (fact) dough baits, reared back and cast this whole mess out into the lake. A good cast was somewhere between forty and sixty feet from the shore. Dad would then set his rods into rod-holders that he and my uncle Lawrence had designed and welded together. Then he waited. Seriously. For what seemed like days.

Bait-casting reel

The idea was to watch for signs of the carp messing with the bait - a wiggle of the line, a soft tug and the hook, a ripple in the water. Then with a flick of the rod, you set the hook and held on. A good-size carp can work you over for a half-hour or more, and the big ones never give up until they're nearly dead. I caught a 27-pound carp when I was twelve. It took 90 minutes to bring him in. You worked them closer to the shore a few inches at a time, finally coaxing them into a huge landing net.

Carp glamour shot

The only thing left to do was take a picture of the damned thing, usually on a rope or a clip stringer. My family history is told with hundreds of pictures of carp hanging on ropes near relatives.

Carp on the doorknob, Bud at the window, 1951

My granddad William H. Simpson, Fort Scott, Kansas, 1947, with fish

I know of people who ate carp, but we didn't. They are an oily species, and I'm told that they're chock full of Omega-3 fatty acids. Residents in poorer neighborhoods in Kansas City could often be seen fishing in Swope Park or Troost Lake, usually for carp, sometimes catfish. The lunkers weren't sport to them, they were sustenance.

We generally gave them away to people with less-finicky eaters at home. Years later, one of my interns at the studio, a student at the Kansas City Art Institute, told me of her winter in Prague.

As it happens, in the Czech Republic, a traditional Christmas dinner is carp that has been cooked in milk. The story was confirmed by one of my employees at Glacier National Park last year. I'm told that Prague rivals Paris for sheer beauty, but I think I'll visit in summer.

My strategy for amusing myself on fishing trips was a big can of Turtle Wax and some rags. While dad sat on the bank and tried to outsmart the clever bottom-feeders, I waxed the Big Blue Cadillac. That sucker really shined up nice. 

My personal Wes Anderson movie continues. Our narratives have much in common.

Thursday, June 10

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June 10, Thursday - Bud didn't have to go to school today. Hot. Not much doing. Spent the evening on the back porch. Thelma was up. Mom went to Denver last night - will be back Sunday.

June 11, Friday - School is out. Hot today - 85°. Bud went swimming. Marv and I had to bring Lambs' car home. Jean goes to Memphis Sunday to have her ear operated on.

June 12, Saturday - Nice quiet Saturday. Sold some bait in morning. Rain all afternoon and evening. Mom called from Salina - will be home about 12.

Kansas City Public Schools year ended in June in those days, and reconvened after Labor Day. My birthday, in the first week of September, was often the last day of summer vacation.

Back on the back porch with the neighbors. Thelma is my friend Leonard's mom. While it was hot and humid, dad never wrestled the window air conditioner into place until the first day that it hit 95°. Installing the huge, energy-gulping window unit was an ordeal on many levels. This was before the days of window units that one person could easily manage. This thing was a behemoth. Dad, of course, being dad, had a system. He kept the air conditioner on top of mom's hope chest, and in the corner of their bedroom. When it came time to install it, he put the chest on a pair of carpet pieces, slid the chest into the living room, and through a series of short lifts and feats of superhuman dad-strength, slid the monster into the window. It was always a joy to feel the cool air fill the house, and to feel the humidity drain away. The neighbors may not have agreed, though. When we switched on the massive Frigidaire, all the lights in the neighborhood dimmed.

I went swimming with my step-cousin (!) Marsha at the Raytown Swim Club. There's that "club" handle again, shorthand for "whites only", though I wasn't aware of all this for quite a few more years. Marsha was my newest cousin, having arrived only the year before when my uncle Bob married her mom, my new Aunt Mary. There was a lot of weird sexual tension between me and my new cousin, but after a few nervous slap-and-tickle sessions, we worked through it.

Our day at the pool was spent entirely in the water, splashing and goofing around. All day. Hours and hours in the sun. Years before the invention of sunscreen. When I got there, I was early summer fish-belly blue/white. When I left, I was bright rose-red, and getting redder by the minute. It was the single worst sunburn I've ever had. I'm just so grateful that I had a full head of hair back then, otherwise, my brain would have cooked in my skull. It was just horrific.

By the next day, my shoulders and back were covered in blisters. I asked for morphine, but all I got was a lecture and a small fan. It didn't help. I couldn't move. When my back peeled, it came off in huge, crinkly sheets. I molted like a cockroach. This is not Kafka. I was not transformed.

From the What Goes Around Department: The Raytown Swim Club became Super Splash U.S.A sometime in the 1990s. I did two location shoots for them not long afterward, enlisting a group of ten or twelve parent-approved and model-released kids to do what kids do in pools in the summer.

Raytown Swim Club, now Super Splash USA

My aunt Jean, mom's sister, had issues with her hearing, and years later, after my mom died, she had issues with me. When mom was facing her end-of-life issues from her third go with cancer, she moved from her efficiency apartment in Temple Heights Manor, a Baptist-sponsored high-rise assisted-living facility, and into Jean's house for a while. When it became clear that mom wasn't going to get the care she needed at Jean's, she moved to a nursing home in Raytown. After mom died, I went to Jean's to get what was left of mom's stuff, and was informed that she had decided to keep a number of items instead of letting me go through mom's things - pictures, letters, etc - as well as some furniture and other effects. I may well have said some unkind things. I'm not sure, as I was blind with rage. I found out later that several members of mom's family gave Jean a dressing-down over all this. I wanted nothing to do with her.

My aunt Jean described herself as the "mean one", and after nearly thirty years had passed, she and I buried the hatchet, and we found common ground as she joined me in my search for my ancestors on her side of the family. May she rest in peace.

The Lambs are Sandi's parents. They always had car issues. Cars are the bane of poor people, more so in a spread out town like Kansas City. It's the Los Angeles of the Plains. For no more people than it has, it takes up massive amounts of real estate. House lots and yards there are huge, with ample spacing.